Tuatahi Work Axe Review

The Road to a Tuatahi
I ordered my Tuatahi Work axe 3 months ago and have been waiting very patiently for it to arrive on my front door. Since becoming interested in axe reprofiling and refurbishing years ago, I have dreamed of owning a racing axe. The truth is though, I probably wouldn't use it because the wood I cut is not as clean as it should be for such a performance axe. This is when I decided that a work axe would be the better option and set my mind on this:

The Tuatahi work axes and racing axes come from the same steel and are forged in the same manner. This is the information from Tuatahi's own site:

"At Tuatahi we also forge axes suitable for use as work axes. These axes are forged from the same high quality steel as the main tuatahi racing axe, but have a thicker edge"

http://www.tuatahiaxes.com/workaxes.html

This means that you are getting a quality work axe made by the same hands and steel stock that produce thoroughbred race axes. This to me was a no brainer considering there are numerous other companies making axes in the $150 - $170 price range which don't have such a rich history in the axe racing sport. Here is a price example:

GB American Felling Axe: $144.60 USD
Council Tool Velvicut: $169.95
Tuatahi Work Axe: $222.00 USD

Since there were no real reviews on the internet, I promised Jo I would do a detailed review of the Tuatahi Work Axe to help other folks interested in purchasing one.

Initial Impressions:
When the axe arrived, it was very well packaged. It was contained within a sturdy cardboard box filled with shredded paper. The edge had a protective plastic slip on it while the head of the axe itself was wrapped in New Zealand's finest newspaper, taped carefully and then secured in it's own cardboard box. The cardboard box itself was wrapped with 4 blue packing straps. There was no way this was going to get damaged in transit.

The Tuatahi Work Axe Head
Upon tearing the wrapping off the axe head, I was presented with a finely shaped axe smeared in a thick oil / grease. There was no rust on the head at all. When I cleaned it off I was gobsmacked. Jo at Tuatahi told me the guys were putting something special together for me and as such needed a little extra time. I was presented with a work axe that resembled their No. 1 grind which they had put a chisel grind on.

I was very impressed at the attention to detail and the craftsmanship. This axe is just lovely to look at. As a complete axe nerd though, I needed to give it a good look over. The profile looked very good.

The blade of the axe arrived extremely sharp and ready to use. I love how they just know people are going to want to try it right away.

The Tuatahi Work Axe Handle
When you handle one of these axes, you will notice just how nice it is to hold. The grip swells out to a large knob which assists with holding onto the axe while it is in full swing. When compared to a regular axe handle, the others seem anaemic in comparison.

What good is a great shaped axe handle though if the grain orientation is bad? Well let me assure anyone in doubt, all axe handles are carefully selected and only the best hickory is used. When I sighted mine up, I couldn't help but to smile! Below is one of the 2 rough turned blanks I ordered just in case. It was the worst of the three and even then, it was better than any of my "good" off the shelf handles I had previously bought for axe projects.

The handle fitted was extremely good. No irregularities in the wood and grain orientation was excellent.

The wood does not have the shiny finish that so many companies like. Instead, it has a rougher finish with slight rasp / sanding marks on the grip. This is not uncommon for felling axes and racing axes as it assists in gripping the handle, but also helps avoid blisters. It was finished in linseed oil.

Measurements
The axe handles are 78cm / 30.7" unfitted, but when fitted to the head some wood is trimmed away, meaning the over all length is 75cm / 29.5" long and together with the head the axe weighs about 2.8 kg or 6.2 lbs.

The Human Touch
Tuatahi axes are hand made. Yes, machines are used in the process, but at each stage the axe is inspected and passes from one set of hands to another. Because of this you will no doubt see some irregularities that would otherwise be absent if the process was fully automated. I only found 1 flaw and it was only obvious because the finish on the axe was so good, it had nowhere to hide.

You can see that the roll pin was struck before it was properly aligned so there is a slight mark near the hole. Again, if Tuatahi were not so fussy with their shiny finish, I would have never known.

Tuatahi Work Axe Test
I was pretty keen to get out and put the axe to the test. It's one thing to look at an axe, it's another thing entirely to swing one. I went outside to my trusty old birch chopping block.

I took down some old, gnarled apple trees 2 summers ago. The wood was now extremely dry and despite being a soft wood, was giving my axes grief because of how twisted the grain was. I had trouble splitting and I had trouble chopping. I believe that if a person is going to spend $222 USD on an axe, it needs to be able to handle a variety of tasks, including splitting.

I put a 10 inch piece on the block. It was warped and twisted and the pieces before gave my other axe serious grief. I took a swing and the Tuatahi blew straight through it. The combination of the edge, the polished finish and the weight gave it the required "oomph" to blow the wood apart. I thought it was a fluke until I did it again, and again. I was grinning like a loon I moved onto a large apple wood log.

I took 6 chops at the log. Big pieces were hanging off and chips began to fly. I was having a great time.

At this point I can only emphasize how impressed I am at the workmanship and quality of the Tuatahi Work Axe. Jo at Tuatahi was in contact with me while I waited and any details or delays were communicated to me. I was never left in the dark and believe that this is a huge advantage Tuatahi have over large companies making premium axes.

So who would this axe suit?
This axe is for those more practiced with axes. You need to know how to look after an axe, and, how to use one safely. You need to have good technique and be strong enough to use a 6.2 lb axe. Due to a length of 29.5 inches, one needs to be aware of what they are doing. This size may seem strang to many but it's the standard for the racing axe. The longer the handle, the higher the velocity of the head and the harder it is to control. On this weight head, the handle length makes it feel right when in use.

Final thoughts and Comments
I would like to say thankyou to the folks at Tuatahi, and especially Jo. They went above and beyond and what I bought from them will become an heirloom. I am very happy with my purchase and would not hesitate in dealing with Tuatahi again. I think when it comes to axes, a person never really knows what they are missing until they use a high quality axe. And really, when you think about it, you can't get much better than a Tuatahi.

Axe Sheath Tutorial

Since getting involved in refurbishing and restoring old axes, I have noticed that most don't have sheaths. I am not a fan of putting a razor edge on an axe only to give it back to the person unprotected. The sheath not only protects the axe's edge, but more importantly protects the person carrying the axe. I know most people may not have much fancy equipment for leather work, so I have tried to make the simplest axe sheath possible using minimal equipment. So lets see what we will need to make a quality, nice looking axe sheath.

Equipment

This is all the hardware you will need to make this axe sheath:

1. 2 stitching needles
2. Heavy scissors / shears
3. Ruler
4. Fork or overstitch wheel
5. Stanley knife
6. Bone burnisher
7. Heavy awl
8. #2 edger

Optional (but recommended)

1. Belt sander / grinder
2. Drill press
3. Needle nose pliers

Consumables

1. 3mm veg tanned saddle leather (minimum)
2. Artificial sinew for stitching
3. Dye (if you intend to colour the leather)
4. 120 grit sand paper
5. Contact cement
6. Beeswax or saddle soap for burnishing
7. Paper / cardboard and a pencil

Step by Step Process

Step 1

Take a sheet of paper and lay it on a nice flat surface. Trace around the edge of the axe and about 2 - 3 inches up towards the eye. Outline this template, giving yourself about half an inch. This extra room is necessary as you will need to glue and stitch in a spacer. This extra width allows the glue to properly grip all surfaces.

Step 2
Cut out the template. Trace the template onto the leather twice. REMEMBER, you will need to reverse the template so you don't have 2 of the same side. Also bare in mind that you want the nice side of the leather to be facing outwards. I usually use a ballpoint pen to draw onto the leather. It works much better than a pencil.

Step 3
Cut out the leather templates using scissors / shears and the ruler and Stanley knife.

Step 4

Since we added half an inch to the blade outline, you should have an outline of what the spacer will look like. Cut this out.

Step 5

If we leave the spacer outline whole when cutting it from the main leather piece, we will create more unusable leather as it's such an awkward shape. I chose to cut it into smaller pieces to reduce waste. At this point, it is also prudent to edge the leather that will be near the opening on the inside. The picture was taken before I had done this. Also, take a moment to check that everything lines up and there are no glaring problems with the fit of the axe in the sheath so far.

Step 6

Apply contact cement to leather. Don't apply it to both sides of the spacers right away. One side will do, plus the portion that will make contact with the other pieces of the spacer. Make sure you don't over apply the glue. Use a small amount but work it into the grain of the leather. In the above picture you can see the edging has been done. Avoid doing the edging where you will glue the spacers as this will result in a gap.

Step 7

Once the glue is tacky to the touch, press the pieces together. make sure the spacers are pressed firmly together. If you are sloppy at this point, there will be gaps that you won't be able to hide. At this point check the fit again. It should be quite tight as friction will be responsible for holding the sheath onto the axe. Even though it is glued, minor adjustments can still be made as the glue is flexible.

Step 8
Apply contact cement to the other side of the spacer. Once this is dry, attach the other side of the sheath, pressing firmly together.

Step 9

At this point the 2 halves and the spacer are firmly held in place by the glue. Mark a light line where you wish the stitching to be. Using your fork or overstitch wheel, mark around the sheath. Now it's time to move to the awl or drill press to make the holes. Because I prefer to over-engineer my sheaths, using an awl is close to impossible. It's extremely hard work and rarely leaves a good result. I use a 1mm drill bit and drill out the leather instead. Be sure not to stray so that you miss the spacer.

Step 10

Now the stitching begins. I stitch using the saddle stitch method. This requires that you put a needle on each end of the artificial sinew. Threading one needle into the hole, pull it through until you have reached the halfway point of the thread. Now you move onto the next hole. First put one needle through, so that both needles and thread are on the same side, now thread the other needle through. You are stitching a kind of "figure 8". Needle nose pliers help here as it can get difficult, especially when back stitching at the start. Here is a great tutorial from Brirish blades to help demonstrate the method:

Saddle stitch tutorial

You can dye the leather before or after stitching. You generally get a better result if you dye before however I didn't as it makes it harder to see what I am doing in the photos.

I always back stitch first. I start 4 holes from the last hole and stitch to the end, then stitch back up again, all the way to the other end. When I get to the other end I stitch back 4 holes again, then clip the thread. This makes the ends stronger and more resistant to seperating.

In this photo I have reached the end, now I have to back stitch.

Once I have back stitched, I clip the threads very close and I am now done with the stitching.

Step 11
At this point the sheath looks pretty rough. This is where the belt grinder / sander comes into it. Use the sander / grinder to grind the irregularities so that you are left with smooth edges. You can also use 120 grit sand paper for this, it just takes longer. Once this is done, go around the sheath with the edger. You will be left with this:

Step 12
If you have left off dying the leather, now is the time to do it. Dying needs to be done before you burnish the edges. I don't use a wool swab. I just use a piece of sponge dabbed into dye and then dab that onto the leather. I make sure to get it inside the sheath so I am not left with the natural colour contrasting against the dark dye. Once the dye is dry, it's time to burnish the leather.

Step 13
This is the final stage. Rub your thumb against the edges first one way, then the other. You will see that the leather has a natural grain orientation. Remember which way the grain naturally wants to lay flat. Now, using a little saliva on the tongue, give the edge you want to burnish a lick. It should now be moist. Now apply your beeswax or saddlesoap. if you use beeswax like me, you will need to rub quite vigerously to rub it into the grain. wetting the edge with saliva first makes the fibers more supple, giving a better finish in the end. Once you have finished applying the wax / saddle soap give the edge another lick so that the burnishing tool will slide easier (not necessary if using saddle soap). Now, using your bone burnishing tool (which can bee a piece of hardwood or even a bit of lambshank bone), rub the edge back and forth quickly. You will see that a shiny finish is starting to appear. Now start to rub the edge in the direction that you noted the fibers naturally wanted to go. You will have to press firmly. Do this to all the edges. Give the edge a final polish and you are done. This is how mine turned out.

Keep in mind this is the most basic sheath you can make. If I was to make it prettier, I would have grooved the leather so that the thread sat flush rather than proud of the leather. I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and found it useful. The more leatherwork you do, the faster you will get. This took me about 40 minutes to make with interruptions.

Repairing chipped edges

In the old days, the file was an axe man's best friend. The job of repairing a chipped edge was a long one that required great patience for the result to be satisfactory. Many lacked this patience which is why we see so many old, chipped heads laying around in old wood sheds.

I was experimenting with my favourite axe and decided on changing the edge and bringing it down to an 18 - 19 degree chisel grind. At this point I will say that an engineer's protractor like the one pictured is a great idea for anyone wanting to modify axes. Without it you are guessing at best and may end up repeating mistakes that will cost you time and possibly money.

I was interested to see how it would go in the relatively soft conifers and birch trees here in Norway. The day I went out we had a cold snap and the temperature was -3 C when I started chopping wood and dropped to a further -10 C over night. I warmed the head however despite my best efforts, the edge chipped. The chips were not too bad, but I still wasn't pleased I had chipped my favourite axe.

When I returned home, I decided to make lemonade from lemons and put up a tutorial on how one can repair such mishaps.

The first step is to set up your grinding jig to an appropriate angle. I don't use anything fancy, just a belt grinder with a piece of angle clamped into place. My jig gave me 23 degrees which is a degree more than a racing axe. If you add the slight convexing during sharpening then this will end up at about 25 - 28 degrees at the very edge.

The next step is to carefully grind until the chips are gone. I do this by resting the poll on the angle and arcing the bit lightly over the grinding belt. The harder you push, the more it heats up so be careful not to overheat the metal. A file is safer but takes more time. I work both sides uniformly until the chips are gone and I am left with a wire edge.

In the above image you can still see the remnant of the worst chip. Towards the toe of the axe though you can see the formation of the wire edge. This is a good sign and means that I don't have to grind much more in that area. I try to preserve my axes and unecessary grinding shortens the bit and thus shortens the service life of the axe.

Now once you have ground the chips out, use the protractor to check the angle one final time. Mine looks ok.

Now you don't need many tools to fix an axe. I do most repairs with the belt grinder, vice grips, drill, clamps, buffing wheel, stripping wheel and diamond hone. I am also mindful of safety and include earplugs and safety glasses as standard equipment.

Now clamping the axe to a work bench, fasten the stripping wheel into the drill. Be mindful of the rotation of the drill and change it so that the wheel spins away from the edge rather than into it. This will avoid catching of the edge and the axe or drill being flung uncontrollably. Now make light passes so that the newly ground portion of the blade is blended into the old. Once this is done, you will only slightly notice the transition between the old and newly ground portions of the bit. Change the wheel to the buffing wheel and give it a final polish in the same manner.

Repeat the same procedure on the other side. You may notice the wire edge has disappeared in some areas. This is not a necessary part of the procedure as the final sharpen with the diamond stone / hone will take care of that. Take the axe and give it a final sharpen. Give each side light passes with the stone / hone and then slice some wood lightly with the edge. This will remove an remnant of the wire edge. Now youcan strop or use a ceramic hone on the edge. The final step is to work harden the edge. Find a solid piece of wood and give it some very light chops with the axe. I use about 10 chops, spacing them out along the length of the edge so every portion is hardened.

Now go and test the axe to make sure everything has come together. I do this by finding some seasoned wood or frozen wood. In this case it was some frozen beech. The axe threw lovely big chips.

This is the benefit to a properly profiled axe. Nice deep cuts and ejected wood. A close up of the cut and the final condition of the edge.

as you can see, no damage to the edge at all. The extra 5 degrees makes a HUGE difference in the edge strength and the final slight convexing of the edge helps a great deal too. My convexing is very slight and is only done to the first 1 - 1.5mm of the edge so is hard to see. I have my favourite axe back in fighting form.

The axe as a status symbol

It's finally happened. The tool most people don't know how to use properly has become the status symbol of the yuppy. Now, folks who have never done any manual labor in their lives can hang an axe on the wall and look at it with fond admiration while bragging to their friends. All this for the low price of....

$445 USD

That's right. No it's not made of Optimus Prime's right bicep, nor was it used to wipe out all the dinasaurs. It's just an axe with a painted handle. Even though I'll be giving this farce more advertising, you need to see it to believe it.

http://www.basecampx.com/the-works/

I know my way around axes and could tell on sight that this was in fact a Tuatahi work axe, which can be bought at this particular point in time for $212 USD. So for a little paint on the handle and a brand name stamped into the wood, you pay a princely markup of $233 This to me is not only a scam, but it's BS marketing at it's absolute worst. Read this tripe and if you can understand what the heck he is writing about, please feel free to enlighten me...

"As mean as it gets. Our Heavyweight will step up and be an extension of your entire body if you know how to swing."

What does this even mean? So if someone stupid enough buys this axe and finds it less than orgasmic while swinging it around their apartment while sipping a martini, it's not the seller's fault as obviously the purchaser doesn't know how to swing an axe. If a person knows how to swing an axe chances are they won't be paying $445 dollars anyway and will stick to the old beaten Plumb axe their dad used.

Hold onto your hats, here comes a rant....

How did this all come about? Is nothing sacred anymore? First designers ripped off old worn and torn jeans which used to be earned legitimately by busting one's arse at work. Then it was the bed hair and after that the bicycle. All these used to be symbols representing the financially strapped and struggling who couldn't afford new jeans, posh haircuts and a car. Now they've grown tired of these and the marketing types have moved onto what was typically reserved for the real men. You know, those guys who didn't give a warm tin of tobacco spit about image and the "cool factor". They have stolen the axe.

Reading some of the dribble on this page has made me realise how carefully thought out the whole concept is. You see, you appeal to the urges that a man has to feel tough and masculine. You even offer him an experience, in this case it's a, and I quote:

"truly unique brand experience"

I am not sure what this is, but it sounds exciting. Then we talk about the code of being a man:

"There was also something else my father taught me in Algonquin Park…
A code.
The code of man. The principles which make a boy into “a man”. Qualities which engender respect and beget leadership. My father’s code was passed on to me around the campfire that was fueled by the wood hewn by our axes."

I mean really? I would be ASHAMED putting this kind of rubbish into writing. He even gives the axe a plug, like it really played some mystical role in his road to manhood. I'd bet my last tin of baked beans his dad didn't hack any trees down with a $445 yuppy axe (this will be shortened to yax in future). To make matters worse, this guy admits to founding the Best Made Co.

http://www.bestmadeco.com/

Which is another marketing company that simply re-badges other products and charges a ridiculous mark up. I work hard in trying to teach people how to resurrect old axes so that they can feel a sense of pride and accomplishment and possibly pass this skill to others. I do this so others can save money, learn a practical skill and understand what goes into making an axe. It stands to reason That I feel like I am at the opposite end of the spectrum to these types of companies and emotive advertising. You see, regardless of what the advertising tells you, it's just an axe. Yes, they use high quality axes, but, unless you practice using them you may as well have a $12 special taken from the bargain bin at your local hardware store. The price contradicts what the advertising is trying to sell you, because no-one in their right mind will spend that money on a tool that will get beaten and scratched in daily use.

The sad thing is, Tuatahi axes who make the Base Camp X axes make an excellent product that does not need the extra fluffing to sell itself. The axes have an excellent reputation amongst axe racers world wide and is often considered one of the best for the money in the world. So why do I care? Because I don't like the emotive and dishonest advertising used by those "middlemen" looking to rip people off. Do yourself a favour if you want a good axe and buy it straight from Tuatahi.

http://www.tuatahiaxes.com/

In fact, when you talk to Jo, tell her Paul from Norway sent you. I'll have my Tuatahi axe in a couple of weeks because I don't consider the modifications done by Base Camp X and Best Made add anything to Tuatahi axes at all. Stay posted for my review of the Tuatahi work axe and if you absolutely must spend money on something, feel free to send some my way.

How to reprofile axes and hatchets

Over the last several years, the number of threads on forums regarding axe and hatchet re-profiling have increased. Some of these contain useful info, most though talk about it, but never show how it's actually done. Even fewer still explain why it makes an axe cut better and how the profile differs between an axe for softwood, and an axe for hardwood. Changing the edge geometry of an axe is NOT reprofiling the axe. This is merely sharpening the axe. Anyone who tries to tell you differently is trying to sell a story to make themselves look more knowledgable than they actually are.

I initially became interested in reprofiling axes about 4 years ago. I had always been keen to learn this black art because as a child I had been to country fairs in Queensland where I witnessed axe racing. It is something special to see one of these axes slice through a large block of wood like butter. I was always impressed at the large chunks of wood these axes managed to throw and knew there was something special about them. When compared to a regular axe, they had a different shape, profile and were highly polished. I always knew this was no coincidence.

Why reprofile an axe?
It seems like an axe should be able to perform properly straight from the box right? I mean we don't need to reprofile knives. The truth is that most axe companies forge the heads, then look at the cheapest and easiest option. This usually involves leaving the bit of the axe thick. this is done so that the heat treat is easier and cheaper steel can be used. You see, the finer the edge, the more necessary quality steel and heat treat becomes. Axes need to be left reasonably thick at the bit because heat treating thin metal is very difficult. Once the heat treat is done, they should then be ground and polished so that the profile is correct, and the edge geometry is right. Unfortunately, to cut down on work all the smith does is put the edge on a belt grinder and gives it a very obtuse edge and then call it a "convex edge". At this point it would pay to look at the following diagram:

If you look where the cheeks are, these should also be hollowed out. If they are not, then the axe will bind due to friction when you try to take deep cuts. This is a tricky thing to do correctly though. When the bit initially cuts in, the wood compresses. As the bit continues to cut in, the wood ramps up on the wedge shape of the bit, then it reaches the cheeks. At this point the wood loses contact with axe, allowing the momentum of the axe to drive the bit in deeper without the wood slowing it at the cheeks. Wood is elastic to a point, and when it passes the union of the bit / cheeks, it decompresses slightly. When hollowing out the cheeks, you need to make sure you hollow it out enough so when the wood decompresses, it does not bind at the cheeks. The following rudimentary diagram illustrates the point:

This diagram is a top down view of an axe head. many start out like the axe on the left. After a reprofile, they look like the axe on the right. The transition between the cheeks and the eye MUST be smooth. If it isn't you will have binding occuring at this point when you try to split wood.

Difference between hardwood and softwood axes
There is a difference between axes meant for hardwood as opposed to softwood. Softwood is more "spongy" in a sense, so when you make your second cut, you need a wider blade to clear the cut and eject the chip of wood out. This does not mean thicker, but, from the edge to where the cheeks start will be a greater distance than on a hardwood axe. I typically make this distance anywhere up to 1 1/2" on axes used for birch or pine. If the blade is narrow, then the wood will simply compress and not split along the grain. This results in having to twist the axe in the wood to try clear the cut. Hardwoods are more brittle so you don't need such a broad "wedge" to cause the wood to crack and be ejected. On hardwoods I tend to leave about a 1/2" blade.

Lets reprofile an axe
So what tools do we need? Here is a list:

1) Angle grinder with grinding disk.
2) Flap disks ranging from 60 - 120 grit.
3) Drill with paint stripping wheel.
4) Bucket of water or snow. I prefer snow.
5) Sanding pads.
6) A belt grinder is preferrable but not absolutely necessary.
7) Quick clamps
8) Bastard file and tape
9) Ear and eye protection
10) Straight edge

Now lets see what we have to work with. As you can see it's a pretty standard Wetterlings axe. It has the forged finish and rough look to it. I hand selected this one as it had the least deformed and unbalanced head of the lot. This is not saying much for the quality control.

Once the axe is laid on the table and a straight edge is used, you soon see how bad the transition between the cheeks and the eye actually is.

What we need to do is thin down the bit so we have a chisel grind instead of an obtuse convex first. Then hollow out the cheeks, being mindful to blend them in to the eye and poll. Here is a side view where the dent from the smith's hammer is evident between the poll and cheeks.

This is where you even up each side of the blade. Manufacturers like to boast a "convex" edge. This is usually a rounded edge that has been convexed to hide the poor edge geometry and inconsistancy. We need to take away the very obtuse convex until we have a "scandi" grind. We can do this with files, or use a belt grinder. I have made a cheap and nasty rig for my grinder that the poll can rest on while the blade is ground flat.

If you use a file, you can set up your axe like in the following picture.

The tape will protect the poll as you draw file. If you have a belt grinder, you need to make a jig so that the poll is raised off the belt slightly so that you can grind the blade of the axe. I don't have a picture of this but I just use vice grips and a piece of angle iron on my grinder. Remember to cool the metal REGULARLY!!

Once you have the blade of the axe ground so that the convex edge is gone, you can assess how unbalanced the axe is. This is what I was left with.

As you can see, the top picture shows that there is much more meat on that cheek than on the other side. We need to make it symmetrical.

Now we move onto hollowing out the cheeks. The first step is to make bumpers to stop us running the angle grinder to close to the edge. I do this by finding a scrap piece of laminate.

Placing the edge onto the laminate, trace around the edge and then grind it out with the angle grinder or bench grinder.

Now clamp your axe to the bench using quick clamps. Measure a half inch from the edge and clamp the bumper onto the blade. Now with the angle grinder, carefully blend the poll with the cheeks. This stage is critical. Constantly check the progress and how much has been removed. You won't grind all the way up to the bumper, so 1/2" will translate to about an inch when it's done.

At this point it is very easy to overheat the head. Keep cooling it. Once one side looks good, go to the belt grinder or the paint stripping wheel on the drill. Starting from the poll, grind down to the edge to smooth out and polish out grind marks. REMEMBER, you will need to reverse the drill's spin depending on the edge you are grinding against. If you don't, it will grab and you will injure yourself. Once you have an even finish, inspect the axe in a good light.
Now one side has been blended, repeat the process on the other side.

This side looks good, now it's time to do the other. Keep checking that the work is symmetrical. Once done, give the head a final polish with the sanding blocks / pads. Give the edge a final sharpen, eliminating the wire edge you got from the grinder or files. You will be left with this:

As you can see, the profile looks much better and the transition from cheek to poll is smooth. The edge is also thinner, which will prevent deflection if you chop at shallower angles. The only recommendation now are that you put a very small convex or secondary bevel on the edge to prevent chipping. Also, work harden the edge before use by lightly chopping some wood after you have sharpened it. If cutting in cold weather, put the head under your jacket to warm it first before you start cutting otherwise you can also damage the edge. this is good practice with any axe, not just one that has been re-profiled. Any questions or comments are welcome.